Posts Tagged ‘electronic components’

Is it safe to buy gray market electronic components?

Tuesday, April 23rd, 2013

Buying Gray Market Components

Buying Gray Market Components

What Are Gray Market Electronic Components – And Are They Safe To Buy?

Chances are the low-cost rechargeable batteries that you ordered over the net failed after one or two cycles of operation. A closer inspection would have revealed the batteries were already past their shelf life when you received them. Welcome to the world of gray market electronic components, which currently forms about 6 to 8% of the total electronic components market, and makes up as much as $60 billion dollars’ worth.

Not only outdated components, even parts rejected (and preferably destroyed) by manufacturers, find their way in the supply chain. It is only after soldering the components and sending them for testing does the realization sinks in that they are not genuine. In the $300 billion semiconductor industry, such bogus components have an annual impact of up to $20 billion.

Apart from this, the gray market is also a known issue for unauthorized sale of new and branded products diverted from the authorized channels of distribution. The gray market not only makes the high-tech companies suffer, it also affects negatively consumers and other end-users of technology, such as the military and the defense. Products advertised as new and authentic could in reality be refurbished after use. They could even be counterfeit. Using counterfeit or non-conforming parts could have significant effects on the performance of the product. In the case of defense and military, these effects could also be catastrophic.

Components Direct recently conducted a study for a leading semiconductor supplier. They found over 90 million units of the products, both analog and digital devices, with over 7,000+ part numbers, were floating in the gray market. Over 80% of the products were in the Asian gray market, and 8% appeared in the EMEA (Europe, the Middle East and Africa) and North America. More than 29% of their gray market product had date codes of less than one year, although the product age spanned several years. Nearly 15% of these products had date codes more than 11 years old.

This demonstrates that no end consumer is immune to unauthorized products, irrespective of whether you are a military sub-contractor searching for obsolete components, or an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) looking for new products.

As the chain of supply has numerous potential points of entry, and the ability to trace the path of the product flow remains limited. This makes the gray market problem a prevalent one in most product categories. The multiple points of entry provide unlimited opportunities for unscrupulous individuals, partners or counterfeiters.

The impact of the gray market is significant and long-term. This affects the revenue, cost, brand reputation, liability and risk of the entire chain of supplies. After sales support for the product may be non-existent or it may affect the company’s profitability to maintain support since no one has paid the applicable support. This also affects the end-user operationally and financially, and it may tarnish the manufacturer’s reputation because of the lowered satisfaction of the end-user with the brand

So how do you protect yourself? Look for component suppliers that are stocking distributors. Take to the search engines to see if there are reports of the supplier having supplied bad or counterfeit parts in the past. If you are unsure, buy a sample and have it tested. While there are some scammers out there, there are also many honest and hard-working small businesses that deserve your business.

What is a battery and how do they work?

Monday, April 15th, 2013
CR2032 battery

CR2032 battery

Batteries power most of our mobile gadgets. These are small chemical powerhouses, which generate electricity by the chemical reaction within the battery housing. Although there are different types of batteries available, all batteries contain cells that have two electrodes and a chemical or an electrolyte between them. Various combinations of series and parallel connections of the electrodes make up a certain voltage rating for the battery. For ease of understanding, we will treat the battery as made up of a single cell.

One of the electrodes is the cathode or the positive (+) terminal and the other is an anode or the negative (-) terminal. Because of the reaction between the two electrodes and the electrolyte inside, there is a buildup of electrons at the anode and a corresponding lack of electrons at the cathode. Although this is an unstable condition, and the electrons want to distribute themselves evenly between the electrodes, they cannot do so because of the presence of the electrolyte and its reaction with the electrodes. An isolated battery soon reaches a chemical equilibrium, and no further reaction occurs.

If the electrons find an alternate path to travel from the anode to the cathode, they will redistribute themselves and the number of electrons will gradually reduce, forcing the chemical reaction to start over again and create more electrons. This process continues until an inert layer covers one or both the electrodes. Usually, the alternate path is through a metal wire, which is a good conductor of electricity and links the two electrodes of the battery through a load or the mobile gadget requiring power.

Electrons flowing from the anode of the battery through the external wire to the load and back to the battery cathode constitute an electric current. Since it is usual to consider the direction of current flow as opposite to that of electron flow, we commonly say current flows from the cathode of the battery through the load and back to the battery’s anode.

Since the physical size of the battery restricts the quantity of chemical inside it, the current produced by the battery is also limited. The battery specification, as mAH or AH, is the product of the current and the number of hours the battery can produce this current continuously. In general, once the chemical within the battery has depleted itself or inert material has covered up the electrodes, the battery becomes useless. However, it is possible to revive or recharge certain types of batteries. These are the rechargeable batteries.

Once a rechargeable battery depletes itself, you can charge it up again by sending a current through it in a direction reverse to what it normally produces when connected to a load. This reverses the chemical reaction inside, and the electrolyte and the electrodes return to their initial condition. You can repeat this discharging and recharging process many times, until the electrolyte exhausts itself totally, and no further revival is possible.

Anti-static electronic component storage bins!

Monday, February 11th, 2013
ESD Protection Bins

ESD Protection Bins

Great deal alert! We’re parting with some of our static dissipative stacking bins – taking them out of service in our warehouse. There’s still plenty of life available in these bins so grab them while you can at 60% off the price of new bins.

The bins are perfect for storing all your sensitive electronic components and supplies. Also ideal for a warehouse environment where you need some ESD protection.

Here are the larger size bins: Large Anti-Static Stacking Bin

And here are the medium size bins: Medium Anti-Static Stacking Bin

The price on these bins when new are $26 for the medium size and over $30 for the large size. Both sizes are stackable with an open hopper on the front side for easy access to the contents of the storage bin. Limited availability – only about 200 left.


New radial electrolytic capacitor assortment available!

Thursday, January 3rd, 2013
Radial Electrolytic Capacitor Assortment

Radial Electrolytic Capacitor Assortment

By popular request we’ve added an additional radial electrolytic capacitor assortment to our lineup of available products. Like our other capacitor kits, this assortment has a big range of capacitances and voltages supported. And like our other assortments, every value is individually bagged and labeled.

But here’s where this kit differs from our other previous kits – we are now able to provide a list of manufacturers and temperature ratings for this assortment so you can be sure that the capacitors in this assortment meet your needs. We’ve designed this assortment to be perfect for anyone’s workbench or ideal in a classroom setting.

Capacitor values range from 0.22uF 50V to 6800uF 10V. There are about 245 radial electrolytic capacitors included spanning 27 different values. Some of the included manufacturers are Taicon, Paccom, Sprague, NIC, Nippon, Marcon and Panasonic.

Is mF and mFd the same as uF? Will the real Microfarad please stand up?

Wednesday, November 14th, 2012

A capacitor marked MFD instead of UF

A capacitor marked MFD instead of UF

For those just starting out learning about electronic components (specifically capacitors and capacitance), we know that there can be some confusion related to this topic.

In short, the answer is yes — mFd is the same as uF- which is also the same as the symbol ‘µ’ as seen in ‘µF’.

Technically ‘mfd’ represents ‘milliFarad’ while ‘uF’ stands for ‘microFarad’ which is an order of magnitude smaller. Here is where the confusion begins. Some older capacitor manufacturers used ‘mF’ in place of uF on their capacitors. Whether it was because their machines could not imprint the correct symbol ‘µ’ or for another reason not known to us, this was the common practice.

Nowadays, we see about 25% of the capacitors that come into our warehouse marked as mFd but we RARELY have any that are truly milliFarads.

On our site, we refer to microfarad as ‘uF’ to keep consistent and to make it easier for customers to find the capacitors they need. In the end. there is really no right or wrong – some other sites might use mF or mFd.

If you need more information about capacitance, check out our handy capacitance conversion chart which will help you convert microfarads into picofarads and nanofarads.

Motor Start Capacitors vs Motor Run Capacitors

Friday, July 20th, 2012

motor run capacitorWe are often asked about the difference between the two different types of motor capacitors: motor run and motor start. Here are the basic differences between the two:

Motor Start Capacitors
The primary purpose of a motor start capacitor is to briefly increase the motor starting torque as well as to allow a motor to be cycled on and off very quickly. It operates in the circuit by staying active long enough to allow the motor to be brought to 3/4 of it’s full capacity. It is removed at that point by a switch in the circuit. You will find that the voltage rating is often one of these four: 125VAC, 165VAC, 250VAC, and 330VAC.

Motor Run Capacitors
Motor run capacitors will then operate after the circuit is started. Using a motor run capacitor will run the motor with greater efficiency. Motor run capacitors are designed for continuous duty. They are energized while the motor is in operation. You will often find motor run capacitors with a voltage rating of 370VAC or 440VAC with a capacitance of 1.5uF – 100uF. Typically, the construction material is polypropylene film.

Operational information
Electric motors that are single phase require a capacitor for a second-phase winding. If you use the wrong motor run capacitor, the rotor may hesitate due to an uneven magnetic field. The hesitation may result in performance issues such as a noisy or overheated motor, increased energy consumption and general decreased performance.

Faulty motor capacitors
You can sometimes spot a faulty motor run capacitor by it’s swollen appearance – or it may have blown and become leaky. Of course, these capacitors should be carefully replaced. In addition to an outright capacitor failure, the capacitance may become reduced over time. Capacitors that are operating with a decreased capacitance may create performance issues. Again, these capacitors should be carefully replaced.

Solar powered LED light in a jar

Tuesday, July 10th, 2012

We love finding products that make great use of solar electricity and our electronic components. How about a solar powered LED light in a mason jar? Perfect for your backyard porch or for mood lighting at a party – or even as a night light in your bathroom, bedroom or kitchen!

The ones we found at MyGrillfriend.com give you a choice – it can be a soft deep orange colored light (referred to as a ‘sun jar’) or a beautiful shade of blue (called a ‘moon jar’) just by flipping a switch. The solar panel inside the jar collects the sun’s rays during the day, and automatically turns on when the lights go down. So easy to use and the LEDS will burn for years! Can I just tell you how much we love this product?!

Of course we had to take our Sun & Moon light apart to see how they made it. Nestled inside the neck of the jar is a highly efficient solar cell which is attached to a rechargeable battery and two low power LEDS – one blue and one orange. On the bottom of the insert is a diffuser which spreads the light throughout the frosted glass container. The switch, which is located on the solar cell, can be switched to blue, orange or even ‘off’ for conserving more energy. Go get one – or two – or ten! They are great!

Solder Sucker for Desoldering – New product alert!

Friday, April 20th, 2012

Solder Sucker

Solder Sucker

We’re always adding new electronic components, parts and supplies to our inventory. This week, one of our new products is a solder sucker, which is a ‘must have’ for anyone that works with electronics and solder.

Crafted in Germany by Amax, this solder sucker is a pump style solder remover. Use it on heated solder to remove the solder from your boards and components. It comes in the original manufacturer’s packaging with instructions for the use and care of your solder sucker.

Here are some basic desoldering instructions:
1. Heat your soldering iron. Push down on the plunger until it clicks to arm the soldering iron.
2. Clean your soldering tip. Place the soldering tip on the side of the old joint. Apply some fresh solder on the old joint to help the old solder soften.
3. Set the plunger on the solder sucker. Place the tip of the solder sucker on the old joint as close as possible to the soldering tip.
4. Release the plunger by pressing the button.
5. Repeat until much of the old solder is gone.
6. If any of the old solder is left in PCB holes, you can heat the old joint again and using the soldering tip on one side and a miniature flat screwdriver on the other, gently rock the joint back and forth lightly to loosen up the tiny leads on the components.
7. You may need to repeat this process again when there is a stubborn joint.
9. Remove your component carefully; taking care to not damage the board.

What’s inside an Apple iPhone 4S?

Wednesday, April 18th, 2012

iPhone 4S

iPhone 4S

We are always amazed when we see the complete list of components and parts that are in some of today’s smartphones. Besides being the ‘latest and the greatest’ as far as technology goes, the parts are also getting smaller with every iteration and release.

Take, for example, the Apple iPhone 4S. Looking beyond the plastic enclosures, the LCD screens and the cameras, there are hundreds of surface mount board level components needed to build just one iPhone 4S including capacitors, transistors, diodes, LEDS and magnetic components. Some are needed for RF purposes, some for switching, and others for power management. Even more components are needed for memory and app processing.

In all, this list is not much different from the requirements of past iPhones or other smartphones however, the size of the components and the vast array of components required will never cease to amaze us!

Great deal on copper plated circuit boards!

Friday, February 3rd, 2012

copper perf boardReady to do some circuit work? Have any new projects that you need perf boards for? We received a shipment of copper plated circuit boards that are ‘nearly perfect’ – that is to say that they are identical to the regular perf boards that we normally stock except that they were poorly scored and separated by the manufacturer resulting in some unusable mounting holes.

We’re selling them in batches of 10 for $5.00. That’s only $0.50 for each perf board. It’s a great deal and they won’t last at that price.