West Florida Components

If you are new to electronics and want a good book to learn about circuits and electronic components, then I recommend that you check out this book:

Getting Started in Electronics by Forrest M Mims III

I’ve had my copy so long that it is almost time to replace it but even though it is an old, worn out copy, the information is still as good today as it was 15 years ago when I got my book. Of course, there are some things that won’t be found in here, but for the beginner, you can’t go wrong with this book.

The chapters are logically laid out and easy to read and each chapter builds on the previous lessons. I would recommend this book for anyone who wants to learn about electronics - from child to adult.

iSuppli’s Teardown Analysis Service conducted a study of the cost of materials for the HTC Incredible. The total was $163.35 for the parts and electronic components used to build the smartphone.

Nearly 20% of the cost of the handset is from the processor which cost $31.40. Right behind the processor was the display and touch screen which is manufactured by Samsung. The display, which is an advanced Active Matrix Organic Light Emitting Diode (AMOLED), cost $31.20. In third place was the memory at $29.80 or 18.2%. It is interesting to note that cost of the 8MP Auto Focus camera in the handset was only $15.70.

The cost to manufacture the phone is a reported $10 bringing the grand total to about $175. That is amazing considering everything the Incredible can do. Think of the Incredible as a handheld computer plus camera for less than $175!

iSuppli did make note of the similarities between the HTC Incredible and the Nexus One. According to iSuppli Director, Andrew Rassweiler, “The Droid Incredible could have been dubbed the ‘Nexus Two’ given its similarity to HTC’s Nexus One introduced early this year.”

Doesn’t it always seem to happen that the iPod battery dies just as you arrive at the gym? Here’s a sad truth: the more complex and feature-laden your mobile handheld device is, the quicker the battery is drained.

Fortunately, there are some non-essential apps and features that you can turn off on the iPod and other handheld devices that run on batteries.

Here’s a partial list of some apps and features on the iPod that can be adjusted to extend the life of your battery:

backlight
hold switch during playback
equalizer
sleep mode
creating playlists

View the video for step by step instructions.

Have any other suggestions we could add to this list? Let us know!

Also - stay tuned for a homemade solar powered charger for your iPod or any similar handheld mobile device. We’ll be providing instructions and selling the supplies in a kit very soon!

What better way to illustrate how to build a basic electronic connection than to use coins to build a battery?

Here’s what you need:

quarters or dimes
aluminum foil
blotter paper (see below)
salt
cider vinegar
wire (short length of both black and red wire - ~16 gauge)
1 LED (any through hole LED)
scissors
pen or marker
voltmeter (optional)

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Trace the coins on the aluminum foil and blotter paper. Cut out 10 of each so that you have 10 circles of aluminum foil and 10 circles of blotter paper.

(Blotter paper can be found in the art store or the art section of your local craft store. You can also find blotter paper in the cosmetics department. If you can’t locate blotter paper, then you can also try using thick paper towels.)

Mix a small amount (1/4 cup) of vinegar with some salt. Stir the salt until dissolved. If the salt can not dissolve, then you’ve added too much. Add some additional vinegar and stir. Soak the circles of blotter paper in the vinegar and salt mixture.

Stack the foil, blotter paper and coins as shown in the video. It is important that the foil not touch the other layers. Let the ‘battery’ stand for about 15 minutes to develop a charge.

Connect each lead of the LED to a short piece of wire; the black wire connects to the negative lead and the red wire is attached to the positive lead on the LED. Place the exposed end of negative wire on the bottom of the ‘battery’ touching the foil, and the end of the positive wire to the quarter on top of the stack.

Optional: Use the voltmeter to measure how many volts are generated by the battery. A battery with 6 or more cells should be able to light up a standard LED with no problem!

In honor of PAC-MAN’s 30th Anniversary, we present a great electronics project.

Is “Big” your favorite movie? Are you saving your money to buy a WII? If you answered ‘yes’ to both of these questions, then you should check out this video project: How To Build a Giant Floor Mat Nintendo Controller.

The best thing about this project is that it’s super easy and requires very few electronic components, parts and supplies. If you’ve done some electronics projects recently, you may have everything you need already at home! OK, so maybe you might need to go buy the felt….but other than that, you’ve probably got everything on hand to make a floor mat Nintendo controller.

Here’s what you need:

A Nintendo game system and controller

Materials required:

3-feet by 5-feet piece of cardboard
40 feet of insulated red wire
6 feet of insulated black wire
Aluminum foil
Packing tape
32 sheets of construction paper
2 yards of gray felt
1/2 yard of red felt
1/2 yard of black felt

Tools required:
soldering gun
screwdriver
scissors

View the video to see all the steps:

I found this how-to today on the great Popular Science web site.

Now that I’ve read through the article - I am amazed that I’ve never seen these instructions written up before.

Theodore Gray, who authors their popular “Gray Matter” column, gives the full scoop on the basic materials used to construct LEDS and provides the basic instructions needed to see just how LEDS work.

OK, it is not so easy to find some synthetic silicon carbide (carborundum) laying around, but surely everyone could get their hands on some sandpaper, needles, a 9V battery and a snap. Follow his instructions, and VOILA…you’ve recreated the basic principles behind the creation of LEDS.

This one’s a keeper.

For those of you wanting to hear just how good a custom built vacuum tube amp or console stereo will sound, here’s a video from Steve at Custom Tube Art which shows the workmanship of his projects and the quality of the sound.

Steve had this to say about his latest project:

Here is a 1960’s style custom console stereo I built displaying the vacuum tube amplifier right next to the Garrard type A turntable. The 807 tube amplifier has a conservative output of 30 watts per channel and uses 6SN7 and 12AU7 pre amp tubes. The speakers are a pair of Jensen 15″ drivers and a pair of DeForest 3″ tweeters in each cabinet. The entire project took two months to build.

You can see more of Steve’s custom work on his Vacuum Tube Amp web site.

Just in from our friend Steve W. in Canada (who constructs the most amazing vacuum tube amplifiers)…

The best way to describe this next amplifier is it’s a Titan. It has to be the biggest, baddest, heaviest and most powerful amplifier I’ve made to date! Weighing in at just under 60 lbs. this push-pull-parallel EL-34 / 6L6 is conservatively rated at 110 watts per channel using EL-34 tubes. Capable of driving 4 or 8 ohm speakers via a switch on the back panel, this amp is a tube roller’s dream.

Simply by plugging in which rectifier tubes you want to use, be it a pair of 5Y3’s, 5R4’s, 5U4’s or even 5AR4’s you can match the correct plate voltage with what ever power tubes you choose, be it a set of 6V6’s, 6L6’s, 5881’s Kt-66’s, Kt-77’s, EL-34’s, or even 7591’s.

You also have the choice of running the amp in push-pull instead of push-pull-parallel simply by not installing the front four power tubes and switching off one of the two rectifier tubes via a switch located on the right hand side of the chassis. The signal and phase-inverter pre amp tubes used are my favourite large dual triodes 6SN7’s.

Now, about the transformers, seeing that this amplifier has to drive thirteen tubes, I thought it only made sense to use a separate filament power transformer. The transformer right next to the larger power transformer is the 20 amp filament transformer. By doing this, I’ve removed the heater load off of the main power transformer which now only has to supply the high voltages the amp needs.

Along with a hefty octet of 470 mfd 400 volt capacitors bought from West Florida Components, there is more than enough capacitance to keep this amp in the black during those high current moments when the music demands it.

By sharing the load this way, the main power transformer will not be taxed nearly as much. The output transformers are massive Hammonds that can easily handle the wattage this amp delivers.

You will notice a volume control knob located right smack in the middle of the mirror in front of the amp that’s surrounded in pure copper foil, and that is because this is a fully integrated power amp with a line stage pre amplifier built into it. That means you do not need to buy a separate pre amplifier. You only need to plug in your CD player, satellite, MP3, I-pod, or what ever type of line stage device you like to use, directly into the amplifier.

There are two benefits to an integrated amp, one, you don’t have to go out and spend money on a separate pre amp, and two, you are amplifying completely with tubes throughout the whole amplifying process from pre amp to power amp, and that makes it sound better, way better!

Once again - amazing job, Steve! Thanks for sharing this with our readers.

We continue to be amazed at the work that our friend and customer from Canada, Steve White, does.

Luckily for us, Steve graciously shares his talents by allowing us to post pictures of his recent projects.

Here’s what Steve said about his console stereo:

If I were to ever to have a legacy, this project would have to be it! Ever since I was 5 years old I’ve wanted a console stereo. 38 years later and I finally have one.

I took 2 old Magnavox cabinets that were originally the same size (both same as the large one) and added to the larger one to accommodate the turntable, and shrunk the other to be a satellite speaker to allow you place it where ever you wanted to in your room to give you the true stereo separation.

I then painted the cabinets Jet black with ice-pearl sparkles. I wanted the tube amplifier to be displayed unlike in older consoles, right next to the turntable, because to me the amp is art! I then completely restored this 1962 Garrard turntable that was reclaimed from an old console, and put the whole thing together.

Here is the result…. Sounds really nice too!

Job well done, Steve!

Opening up and tearing down an IPOD Shuffle to see what’s inside…

The 3rd Generation of the IPOD Shuffle is a wonder of technology….1000 songs stored in an aluminum case smaller than a disposable lighter.

Did you ever wonder what electronic components make up the guts of an IPOD Shuffle?

You might be surprised at what goes into the circuitry of the IPOD Shuffle. In descending order by percentage of cost, the main components are:

logic, memory, metals, rechargeable materials, connectors, PCB, crystal, misc, capacitors, transistors, analog, diodes, magnetic, and plastics.

Here’s a partial breakdown by number of electronic components:

Capacitors - 65+
Resistors - 50+
Diodes - 4+

Pretty amazing what goes into equipment that measures only 45.2mm x 17.5mm x 7.8mm when fully assembled! This is possible because the components are extremely small surface mount components.

If you look at the cost breakdown by component family, it’s just as revealing. Naturally, the largest share is for memory in the form of IC’s. Over 70% (about $12.00 worth) is for logic and memory.